SCENE 1
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AB: Nope. When it comes to macaroni and cheese, I go with the traditional elbow noodle. Now
take a look at that. See the size of that hole?That is the perfect size for letting in just a little bit of melted cheese sauce but not so much that the noodle collapses. |
Elbow Noodle |
Macaroni and cheese is Ronald Reagan's favorite dinner.
AB: Elton, the world is full of great melting cheeses: fontina, gouda, gruyére. But I only know of one cheese that's got the backbone and bite needed to stand up to the blandness of macaroni.
ELTON: Do you mean the orange stuff?
AB: The orange stuff. Well, if by the orange stuff you mean English cheddar, you're absolutely right. Did you know that the word cheddar actually refers to the process by which they cut the fresh blocks of cheese and stack them up on each other, let the weight naturally squeeze out the extra whey. The result, a very, very firm texture and a very, very good melter I might add. It also refers to the town of cheddar where cheddar was first cheddared. Now we're going to need 12 ounces of this grated. So get to work, okay? |
English Cheddar |
ELTON: Why can't we just use this? It's already grated.
AB: Yes, this is already grated but it's for something else. Now go ahead. Get to work. You need the experience. And believe it or not, it will go a lot faster while it's cold. Off you go. Off you go.
ELTON: Oh, okay.
AB: Off you go.
Hee, hee. I knew I'd get some work out him.
Archaeological evidence dates the dawn of cheese making at 8000 BC.
ELTON: Finally I am done with that cheese you wanted me to grate. |
12 oz. Grated Cheddar |
AB: Great. Hee, heh. Great. Never mind.
ELTON: [noting large pot of water]
You must be planning to cook a lot of noodles.
AB: Nope. Only half a pound. That's two cups dry to you and me. But I never, ever, ever cook pasta unless I boil an entire gallon of water. |
1/2 pound = 2 cups Dry |
ELTON: Why so much water?
AB: Well you see, pasta needs room to move around if it's going to cook evenly. It needs room to expand, it needs room to release starch. That's just the way ... hey. Didn't you watch our pasta show?
ELTON: Mom doesn't let me watch your show.
AB: [sighs] Remember when I was talking about those, those little tubes staying open enough so that you could get a little bite of cheese out of it? Remember that?
ELTON: Uh, yeah.
AB: Yeah, well, if this noodle overcooks, okay, it will mush flat when we build our casserole and you're not going to get that. So, we're going to bring this back to a boil, then we'll turn the heat down to medium and let it cook for six minutes. Not a minute more. Not a minute less. You never watch it? |
Cook For 6 minutes After it Comes To A Boil |
ELTON: Nope. Sorry.
AB: [sighs]
AB: As soon as your timer goes off, carefully drain your pasta—always away from you, Elton, always away from you—and give it a
quick bath in cold water. |
Cold Water |
AB: Well, because, right now it's perfectly cooked. We want to keep it that way by putting cold water on it will stop the cooking process.
ELTON: Oh.
AB: There. Okay, that will do it. You can turn it [the water] off. Now we don't want it to water log either so we'll shake some of that off. Now, take a look at this. That is perfectly what I call "super al dente". That'll stand up to just about any cheese sauce we'd ever want to use. [tries one] Mmm. Here you go. |
Super Al Dente |
ELTON: Thanks.
AB: Now let's get to that sauce.
AB: You see, Elton, it takes more than macaroni and cheese to make macaroni and cheese.
ELTON: Why's that?
AB: Because if we just cook that stuff [macaroni] together with that stuff [cheese]
it'll end up looking like this stuff [mac and cheese goop].
ELTON: That's not good eats.
AB: Good call. See, what we need is to bring these things together with a kind of edible glue.
ELTON: Ehh, like library paste?
AB: Kind of like library paste but maybe something that tastes a little better than that. Come on. You've got some whisking to do.
ELTON: [sighs] Oh bother.
AB: First step is to melt three tablespoons of butter over medium heat. And we're going to wait and let it completely finish foaming and bubbling so that the water's all out of it. And then after that we're going to whisk in exactly the same amount, three tablespoons, of flour. Go ahead, tap that in there. |
Melt 3 Tbs. Butter 3 Tbs. AP Flour |
ELTON: So this is the glue?
AB: Well, it's going to make the glue. It doesn't turn into glue until we've got it completely whisked in and we've got to let it cook for a little while. In fact, once we've got this smooth, we're going to cook it over low heat until it is the color of, well, about the color of your hair. |
Cook 2 - 3 minutes To |
ELTON: Now that looks like library paste.
AB: Yes, but it's not going to taste like library paste because you are going to add a tablespoon of dry mustard powder. Just dump that right in here. And half a teaspoon of paprika—that's the red stuff there. Perfect. Good. Good. And about half a cup of chopped onions. Right in there. And one bay leaf. Perfect. And we're also going to add in a teaspoon of kosher salt. There you go. Now kind of shake it to level it off. There you go. Dump that in. Perfect. Now we're going to bring that together into a kind of a paste. There. Okay. Now slowly pour in three cups of milk. It's going to steam a little so watch your arm, okay? There you go. Right down the middle. There. Nice and slow. You're going to whisk the entire time. Keep going. Great. |
1 Tbs. Dry Mustard Powder 1/2 tsp. Paprika 1/2 cup Chopped Onions 1 Bay Leaf 1 tsp Kosher Salt 3 Cups Whole Milk |
AB: Now here's the thing. That flour is not going to start to thicken this sauce until it almost comes to a boil, right? So you've got some whisking to do.
ELTON: Uh, okay.
AB: I'll be back.
Bechamel is one of the 5 French "Mother Sauces",
from which many other sauces are made.
ELTON: So, how's that?
AB: That is perfect. But I tell you what. Let's get the bay leaf out. That's a little chewy even for me. |
Remove Bay Leaf |
ELTON: So what's the egg for? AB: Ah, that's a little bit of a secret ingredient. It's going to add some richness, some extra creaminess. But we can't add it directly to the sauce because it's hot. It'll turn this into scrambled eggs. So, I'll tell you what. Take your little spoon there and just put about a tablespoon or two of that [mixture] into here [the eggs]. That'll increase the temperature slowly which is what we need. There you go. Good, good. One more. There. See it's starting to thicken. Great. Okay. Now you stir and I'll pour it right back in there. ELTON: Okay. AB: There. This is called tempering and you do it with a lot of sauces. Whisk fast. Great. Now the last ingredient is, of course ... |
1 Egg Beaten Add 1-2 Tbs. Hot Add Tempered Egg |
ELTON: ... the cheese. AB: The cheese. But we're only going to add about three quarters of it. We've got to save some for the top. Keep stirring. Now once we've got all that worked in, all we have to do is fold in our noodles and add to the casserole. |
Add 3/4 Of The Cheese |
AB: Now last but not least, a layer of Japanese bread crumbs. ELTON: But why Japanese? |
1 Cup Japanese Bread Crumbs |
AB: Well, because they are very, very course and so they are going to brown up a lot crisper. Hand me that melted butter over there, will ya? I got a cup of these [bread crumbs] and a quarter cup of this [melted butter]. There we go. Now the butter is going to help them to brown. And brown means crisp and crisp is what a lot of this dish is about. It's about contrast between a crunchy top and a creamy interior. So I'm just going to smear those on the top. There. Now half an hour in a 350 degree oven. |
4 Tbs. Melted Butter 1/2 Hour At 350° |
Soon, cookies of the world will be long forgotten.
ELTON: Uncle Alton?
AB: Yeah?
ELTON: Who are you talking to?
AB: Nobody.
If you can't find Panko bread crumbs,
coarsely chop 2 cups of seasoned salad croutons.
AB: Mmm. Mmmmm. So, what do you think?
ELTON: Well, it's good, but I can't take it to school.
AB: What are you talking about? This is the best macaroni and cheese this side of a church social.
ELTON: Well, you see, my friends and I like the kind from a box.
[dramatic chord]
AB: [biting knuckles] You really know how to hurt a guy.
ELTON: Sorry, Uncle Alton.
AB: I don't think you're sorry. But, okay. All right. If you've got to have stove-top macaroni, we'll make it. It'll be 50 times better than the box. But you've got to do the work. Deal?
ELTON: Okay. Deal.
AB: Let's go.
Thomas Jefferson once received a 1,235 lb. wheel
of cheese as a gift giving us the phrase "the big cheese".
[no dialogue: Elton is whisking and Alton is adding ingredients to the bowl] |
2 Eggs |
[Elton adds salt to boiling water and then macaroni is added] | Salt 1 Gallon Boiling Water |
[Elton drains the pasta, shakes, repots and stirs in butter] | 4 Tbs. Butter |
[Elton stirs while egg mixture and cheese are added] |
Add Egg mixture |
ELTON: [tasting a bite] Now that's good eats.
Evaporated milk is basically unsweetened condensed milk.
GUEST: Marsha, Suspicious Sibling
ELTON: [reading the fictitious book, "The Big Book of Culinary Lies"]
This is the best day I've ever had. Touring a refrigerator factory and bowling, too. All in one afternoon.
AB: Yep, your old Uncle Alton knows a little something about having fun. Hey, you hungry over there?
ELTON: What's you making?
AB: Something special, my boy: fried macaroni and cheese. And it's easy. All we do is take the mac and cheese we baked yesterday and turn it over a couple of times in some flour that's got a little cayenne pepper in it—just for fun. Dust it off. Knock it into a little bit of beaten egg. Okay, you got that? And then into some of those Japanese bread crumbs. Just kind of pack those on all around like that. And what I like to do is I use this thing called a spider, this little wire guy right here. And we just put that on there and drop it into 375 degree oil. In just a few minutes it comes out golden brown and delicious. Why don't you put a little kosher salt on there and, I'll hit you with a little pepper sauce. Great. And you've got a delicious treat. |
Leftover Baked Macaroni & Cheese, Slice 1 Cup Flour + Beaten Egg Japanese Bread Crumbs 375° Peanut Oil |
ELTON: Heart attack on a plate.
AB: I hadn't really thought about it that way.
[door knocks]
AB: Hey, look what the cat drug in.
MARSHA: Where's that boy of mine? What are you eating?
ELTON: Hi, mom. Fried mac and cheese. Want some?
AB: Yeah, sis. It's, uh, for, uh, school research.
MARSHA: Is that right?
ELTON: And we've learned that by making a béchamel sauce, we can use starch to bind our macaroni and cheese to a custard that won't curdle. And there's a reason why elbow noodles are a historically popular pasta for the job. And guess what, mom? You can make your own stove-top version with milk in a can. You don't have to use that box stuff any more.
MARSHA: Heh. Honey, you know good and well I don't make
macaroni and cheese from a box.
ELTON: Oh, sure you do.
MARSHA: Oh, shh. Okay. Shh. Let's talk about that later.
AB: You know sis, why don't you try one of these? I think you'll find it's
better than the box stuff that some "other" people use.
MARSHA: [eating a bite] Mmm. Good gracious.
ELTON: No, mom. Good eats.
AB: Good boy you got there.
*I'm not sure what type of macaroni Alton buys, but most of the bends of macaroni I've seen, including the one Elton is looking at, are closer to 180°, i.e. the curve returns back on itself.
Last Edited on 05/01/2011