Georgia's State Flags,
Home of Good Eats
First step: boost your hot box to 500 degrees. That is a lot of heat. But donít worry, itíll be absorbed slowly.
|The method that I have in mind would be perfect for our two beautiful little striped bass that we have here, on ice, of course. But theyíre going to need some help in the flavor department. For instance, some herbage. One big bunch of parsley and another big bunch of dill will do nicely. As would, ooh, some citrus, a lemon. Also, an onion, which we would never keep in here [the refrigerator], now would we?||
1 Large Bunch Parsley
1 Large Bunch Dill
1 Large Lemon
|First, we need a little bit of oil [into a large broiler pan] just to make sure that nothing sticks. And go ahead and load up the fish and kind of lube everything, because we need it oiled up. And that will hold on to the seasonings. Salt, inside and out, and pepper, both sides.||
2 Tbs. Olive Oil
2 (1-1Ĺ lbs.) Whole Striped
1 Tbs. Kosher Salt
|Now, we are going to move the fish off and the greenery on. Just about half of it. Parsley and dill, onion, and the lemon last [which are in slices]. And thatís right up against the skin of the fish.||1 Large Onion, Sliced|
|Now, the fish back on. And Iím going to point one kind of in opposite ways. It makes a tighter package. There. And the rest of the lemon. More onion and all of the greenery. Basically in a perfect world, weíd have a kind of mound that completely hides any of the fish. The fish wonít be touching the pan, and nothing will be able to touch on the top. A little oil will help to hold things down and also help to carry some of the fat-soluble flavors out of the herbs.||1 Tbs. Olive Oil|
Good. Thatís a nice, compact little mound. A layer of foil, properly applied
[creased down over the roasting pan],
will actually help to build up some pressure inside of the vessel during
cooking. And that is going to help push some of the herb flavor into the fish.
Weíre good to go.
Slide the fish in [the oven] and set your favorite timer to 30 minutes.
[later] If thereís a cardinal sin in fish cookery, itís overcooking. And really, the only way to avoid it, is to use a thermometer. Luckily, this kind [a Thermapen] you can just punch through the foil, into the fish. And weíre looking for 120 degrees. Iím a couple of degrees hot, but that is okay. Time to evacuate.
Now, cooking fish is pretty gosh darn tricky, but
moving it is positively treacherous. Thatís why I use my secret weapons, turkey
lifters! Is there a word for a tool that is really bad at the job that itís
designed for, but really good for other things? I donít know. Iíll have to work
on that. Anyway, just use this to kind of scrape off the greenery and wiggle
under, and airlift to, a platter with fresh herbs. I like the herb flavor; just
not the way these old ones look. Same thing here. [the second fish] Get right
under and move it over. There, that looks good.
Now, the lemon flavor is already there, but thereís no reason not to wake it up with some fresh lemon. Just a few wedges for squeeziní at the table.
The largest striped bass ever landed was a 125 pound
female caught off North Carolina in 1891.
GUEST: ABís Next Door Neighbor
[AB is standing next to his backyard fence, his neighbor is working next door] Due to their large surface to mass ratio, relatively uniform skeletal structure, and lack of connective tissue, whole fish are especially well-suited to grilling. Now, my neighbor, well, he often has the common challenges. [removes a plank of the fence separating the two backyards to reveal that his neighbor is grilling a whole fish] Letís take a look at his fish.
NEIGHBOR: [is cooking a badly burned fish on a charcoal grill and is having a tough time turning it over, it is quite mangled]
Oh yeah, heís got heat control issues. And heís got sticking issues. And, ooh, turning and moving issues too. You know, some folks try to get around these problems by encasing their fish in medieval cages. Me, I prefer to use a gentler, more ancient method.
GUESTS: Native American Male and Female Dolls
Centuries ago, native Americans in the Pacific Northwest learned to preserve fish by stretching them on cedar or alder planks which were planted upright beside a smoldering fire. Often, the men tended to the fish, while the women gathered fuel for the fire. This method made up for the fact that metal grills had yet to be invented. And, it infused the fish with a smoky goodness.
[effecting the voices of the dolls which are visualizing what AB has just described]
FEMALE: [carrying firewood] Whatís wrong with this picture?
MALE: Um, nothing.
F: Ohh, men! [throws down firewood]
M: Oh well, at least I have the fish.
GUEST: A customer
These days, you can walk in to just about any cooking store and find a selection of cedar, alder, maple, or hickory planks, cut in the three eighths inch thick range. Most come two to a pack, and run anywhere from 10 to 15 dollars. Now if that sounds a wee bit steep to you, and it certainly does to me, you can also head down to your local lumber concern, [spots a product that he likes] ... ah, good ... and purchase a three-quarter to one-inch thick board and have it cut down into a bunch of planks. But remember, most commercial grade lumber has been treated with preservatives, like Creosote, pentachlorophenol, and/or arsenic, none of which are good eats. So, youíre going to want to buy furniture grade wood that is untreated and that has also been kiln-dried.
CUSTOMER: [a little bit upset] Shoot, I been cookiní with pressure-treated shingles all my life just like my Dad. Never hurt me. [walk away, we notice a tail coming out his rear] Tastes good, too.
[noticing the tail] Is that ... ? Iím glad we had this talk.
Other woods good for planking include cherry, pecan, white oak and apple.
Believe it or not, wood is a pretty good insulator, right up to the point where it bursts into flames, which is around 550 degrees. Luckily, this reaction can be delayed by soaking in cold water for at least a couple of hours and up to overnight. And since wood, like ducksówhich isnít small rocksófloats, adding weights is a good idea. [produces two barbell weights] Heck, itís not like Iím using these for anything else, right? There.
AB: [to the submerged planks] Stay!
[now attending to some fish] Meet Oncorhynchus mykiss, a.k.a. ďrainbow troutĒ. A fresh water cousin of the salmon which is farm-raised in the U.S. And unlike a lot of carnivorous farmed fish that eat more protein than they provide, produce large amounts of waste, and pose a threat to wild populations, trout are quite efficient at feed conversion. They donít make much waste and rarely escape their habitats. Best of all, they are excellent planking fish.
Speaking of our planks, we have already allowed those to drain for a few moments. So weíll just place those out here on a half-sheet pan and load up the fish.
|2 (1-2 lbs.) Whole Trout|
One of the nice things about working on planks is that you can, you know, basically use them as cutting boards. But in this case, weíre going to go with the shears again. And weíre going to take off the heads.
AB: [to the fish] Sorry.
Flip him over, removing that front fin at the same time. And there you have it. Comes off easy, and gosh darn it, the kids love to play with these things. Kidding. Move on down. Get these fins here, the dorsal fin. Thatís where the spines are. Trim the tail. Donít take it all the way off, just trim it. And repeat with the second fish.
Now for lubing and seasoning: just a little bit of oil. You can use canola oil,
olive oil, whatever you like. Just kind of brush that on. Make sure you get
inside the cavity. Not only will this help to hold the seasoning, it will help
heat move into the fish. There.
Next, the seasoning proper. Salt outside and inside the cavity. Do not forget that. There. And pepper. Obviously, a one-handed pepper grinder has some advantages here. Donít forget inside. There.
1 Tbs. Olive Oil
1 Tbs. Kosher Salt
Now, kind of prop the fish up, and spread out the belly flaps so that they sit upright, as if they are swimming. There. Now, off to the grill.
When planking fish, I like to keep my grill hovering between 375 and 400 degrees
Fahrenheit. The goal: to have the fish be done just as the boards have steamed
out and are beginning to char and give up some smoky goodness. What we want to
avoid is actual ignition, of course. And I always keep one of these [fire
extinguishers] around, just
in case. Never had to use it, though.
Indirect heat, of course, is key. So right now, I only have the middle burner on on my grill. And Iím going to place one far up here, one fish, and the other one way down this way so that theyíre not over direct heat. Iím going to close the lid. Set my timer for 20 minutes. Oh, you donít want to leave the scene.
[later] Time is up and the fish is temping at, oooh, 122. Thatís just perfect. So weíre going to pull this off. You can see the boards have dried but just barely started to take any char. You can wash those in hot water and use them again and again and again. Of course, you know, the best thing about this method, besides the fact that the fish wonít stick to the grill, and the fact that the meat is subtlety perfumed with smoke, is that there arenít any dishes to wash. Just serve it on the board. Thatís good eats.
In the upper Midwest, whitefish from the Great Lakes is a favorite for planking.
GUESTS: ABís Doctor
The Grim Reaper
My doctor is always telling me, ďEat more oily fish.Ē, because ...
DOCTOR: ... among other things, like vitamin A and D, itís loaded with polyunsaturated omega-3-fatty acids, which are not only good for your heart, but they actually help regulate your heartbeat, and can stave off prostate cancer ...
... which is just another way of saying oily fish can beat back ...
GRIM REAPER: [floats by in the background]
... well, you know.
Although most folks think big when it comes to whole fish, my personal favorites are rather Lilliputian. Say hello to Osmerus mordax. Which sounds a lot better than ďsmeltĒówhich is actually the family name, encompassing over a dozen similar species which range in size from about two inches to up to a foot; and run from Labrador all the way around South America to Alaska.
AB: [to the smelts] Come, my darlings. Time to eat.
Other fish that fit into the oily category include
mackerel, herring and orange roughy.
Like a lot of the salmon families, smelt are anadromous, meaning that they live in salt water but migrate to fresh water to spawn. When spawning time comes, they are so full of oil that the old-timers used to dry them out and use them as ... [shows smelt being used as candles], hence the name ďcandle fishĒ. And no, Iím not making this up.
Smelt take their name from the Anglo-Saxon word ďsmoeltĒ, meaning shiny.
Smelt is best when it is cooked simply; and simply fried happens to be my favorite. As you can see, I have a fry station all set up. Iíve got my dredge zone, my fry zone featuring a 12-inch cast iron skilletówith just enough peanut oil to cover the bottom of the panóover medium-high heat, until the oil shimmers, which it is. I also have a draining station. I have a lid standing by, just in case there are splatters. And a you-know-what [fire extinguisher] standing by just, well, just in case. Letís cook, shall we?
|Each one of our beautiful little smelt will get a dip in lemon juice, freshly squeezed is best. And then it goes directly into a vessel containing highly spiced, or rather, highly seasoned bread crumbs: just kosher salt and some black pepper. Youíll notice that the bread crumbs are a little on the dark side. Thatís because I grind them out of the crust of leftover French bread. And I just cover that up. I only do about three at a time and give it a toss. You could use regular store-bought crumbs if you want. But avoid Japanese or panko-style bread crumbs. Theyíre too clumpy for this application.||
Fresh Squeezed Lemon Juice
Breadcrumbs With Kosher
Now, as we add them to the pan, we always add away so that we do not splatter. And Iím only going to cook a few at a time. Let these go three to four minutes on each side or until the smelt are golden brown and delicious.
[after frying] While theyíre still warm, hit them with a little extra salt and a squeeze of lemon.
One female smelt may lay anywhere from 1,400 to 1,800 eggs at a time.
[AB is sitting at the table and is very nervous] Well, um, I hope that weíve given you the necessary knowledge to try your hand at a few simple whole fish applications. Despite the fact that they do tend to stare at you with their little, beady dollís eyes, thereís ... thereís nothing to be afraid of. [the camera pans back to reveal that AB is sitting with several clowns] Besides, itís .... itís always good to work through your fears ... uh ... right? Heh, sure, sure it is. Huh, see you next time, on, on Good Eats, okay? Okay?
CLOWNS: [turn to look menacingly at us]
CLOWN: [puts a fake yellow clown nose on AB]
AB: [looks at the camera nervously]
*Alton was the first non-aquarium staff or dive team to
scuba at the Georgia Aquarium and specifically the Ocean Voyager tank.
Other TV personalities had been there (e.g. Matt Lauer) but they had
not dived in the tank. AB is an accomplished and certified diver and
went in with staff members for protection. Apparently, the groupers are
Note, this is not the first time AB has scuba-ed at an aquarium. See the Hook, Line and Dinner episode.
Transcribed by Michael Roberts
Proofread by Michael Menninger
Last Edited on 08/27/2010